Rob Broadfield reviews Harvey Leigh’s Public House in Highgate


It’s not the primary time you’ve heard of Dan Wegener from us. He is among the nation’s best wine guys. His wine lists have gained awards round Australia. He was topped Australian Sommelier of the Year in the mid-noughties whereas operating the booze program at Quay in Sydney, arguably Australia’s best restaurant.

Wegener additionally spent critical cash on the wine cellar at Print Hall when it first opened in Perth and subsequently gained The West Australian Good Food Guide Award for it.

And then, oh pricey, he needed to open his personal restaurant. He referred to as it Harvey Leigh’s after his new(ish) child and launched it a few months in the past in the previous Enrique’s Bar website in Highgate.

When we first went, the meals was … um … enough. Now, as deliberate, Harvey Leigh’s has expanded sideways into the previous Beaufort Local restaurant website and consolidated its meals and wine supply.

If you’re a wine buff, let Wegener do what he does best — serve you superb, typically difficult, typically obscure, at occasions reassuringly basic, however all the time first-rate wines. The pouring record is superb — and the way uncommon is that in this city — and the large, bushy, superior cellar (Cave) record is an excessive amount of for a wine lover to soak up in one go to.

Our recommendation. Sit on the bar. Order a few of the (now improved) dishes and spend your youngsters’s inheritance on wines from a number of the best homes in Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Loire Valley, Jura, Provence, Margaret River, the Porongurups, Beechworth, Yarra Valley, Portugal and Italy. What, no Napa Valley? Only joking. Ask for “The Cave” record, correctly pronounced the “carve” record, for those who wish to get this stuff proper.

The steak was cooked impeccably and sliced towards the grain. Properly rested, it was magnificently tender and fleshy and purple on the within.

If you’re not a wine buff, however you recognize what you want, the by-the-glass record is as critically curated because the cellar record and has worth among the many heavyweights.

The meals is sweet, slightly tough across the edges nonetheless, however you may be proud of a lot of the menu.

Pigs head croquettes, $15 for 3, wraps up confit piggy bits in a skinny coating of fried crumbs. The scents of garlic, tarragon and Dijon add depth. More salt, please.

Camera IconPig head croquettes.Picture: Iain Gillespie/The West Australian

Harvey Leigh’s has gone retro. It has a crepe record, spanning candy and savoury. Interesting. A confit duck crepe, $18, was garnished with spring onions and batons of cucumber, which recommend it might be calling on Chinese origins for its flavours. The duck was effective. The thickish, delicate chilli sauce squirted excessive was so candy you may use it as an ice-cream topping.

Steak frites, $26, was the winner on the day. The steak was cooked impeccably and sliced towards the grain. Properly rested, it was magnificently delicate and fleshy and pink on the within. A cafe de Paris butter — the steak condiment made with about 30 components — was a ripper. It got here with French fries which have been lukewarm to chilly. Pity.

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A pastrami sandwich was direct from the New York deli playbook: thinly sliced, heat pastrami, laid between two tranches of toasted bread, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard. The meat was tangy and salty and natural. Great sandwich. The meat-to-bread ratio was means out of whack. It wanted thinner slices of bread — these have been large doorstops — or rather more meat to match the thick slices. In New York they go too far the opposite means, with virtually 500g of thinly sliced pastrami piled excessive between two slices of rye so skinny you may decide a lock with them. Wegener assures us the bread-to-meat ratio shall be spot on by the point you get there.

The crepes menu at Harvey Leigh’s Public House.
Camera IconThe crepes menu at Harvey Leigh’s Public House.Picture: The West Australian

Grilled gem lettuce, $9, is a cracking good aspect dish: charred half lettuce teamed with a buttermilk dressing and crunchy, toasty crumbs for texture.

Charcuterie, oysters, fish crudo and moules marinieres are a few of the different bistro-style dishes on the cardboard. The menu is a superb match with the wine-forward supply. They are easy, simple wine-friendly dishes and never over-reaching or making an attempt too onerous.

Given the current start of their baby, it’s not shocking that the house owners get the wants of oldsters. There’s a youngsters’s menu and a few mild and straightforward meals for households, too. Chicken schnitzel would be the go-to for a lot of.

We assume you’ll love Harvey Leigh’s. It’s nice, unpretentious and as interesting to full-throttle wine fanatics as it’s to households, mums with strollers and teams of mates.

Harvey Leigh’s Public House

484 Beaufort Street, Highgate 6478 0920, harveyleighs.com

OPEN

Monday-Tuesday, 8am-3pm; Wednesday-Sunday, 8am-late.

PRICES

Bar snacks/entrees $12-$17

Crepes $10-$18

Mains $21-$26

Sides $Eight-$13

THE BUZZ

Informal and welcoming, with a wine program that places most Perth eating places to disgrace. Food is unpretentious. Service is skilled and brisk.

SCORE

14/20





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